at the Django Reinhardt Festival in France
Alexander Michael at the Django Reinhardt Festival in France
Some seventy years after the death of guitar legend Django Reinhardt, Key West musician Alexander Michael attended a festival celebrating Reinhardt’s life and his famous jazz manouche style of music (aka gypsy jazz, gypsy swing). The music began with the Manouche clan of Romanis gypsy population in Belgium and France. Gypsy Jazz refers to a style of music rather than the ethnicity of the players.
The jazz manouche style of music was originally inspired by American jazz, blended with gypsy folk elements, a heavy swing influence, and the music of Louis Armstrong. 
Many of the Romani could not read music so songs would often originate from open jam sessions. It was 1920s and 1930s old school jazz and the gypsy culture took it to a whole new level.
Belgian-born Romani Django Reinhardt was a musician in the 30s and 40s who was first associated with jazz manouche. He teamed up with Stephane Grappelli, a French jazz violinist. They began touring in 1934, performing until the threat of World War II interrupted their success, only a short five years later.
The duo of Django Reinhardt and Stephane Grappelli introduced this genre to the masses and toured most of Europe with three others known as Quintette du Hot Club de France. The best examples of his music include songs like “Nuages,” “Limehouse Blues,” and “Minor Swing.” They continued together after the war but it was never the same.
Alexander Michael has been studying Reinhardt’s music for over a decade. About five years ago, he was introduced to Czech-born violinist Martin Sedlak who also loved this genre. They formed a group and began introducing gypsy jazz to Key West audiences, much like Reinhardt & Grappelli in the 30s. Martin has also been to several of the jazz manouche festivals.
The official name is the Django Reinhardt Samois-sur-Seine Festival. It’s held on the banks of the River Seine about an hour south of Paris and has run continuously since 1983. It’s an international event that attracts several thousand fans every year and is usually held the last week in June from Thursday through Sunday. The best of the best jazz manouche musicians are attracted to this festival and includes worldwide enthusiasts as far away as South Korea, Sweden, Australia, and the United States – every continent seems to be represented. Gypsy jazz music is appreciated around the world.
Originally held on an island named Samois, the festival is now held nearby at Chäteau de Fontainebleau. There are two main stages that are constantly filled with manouche originals. Campgrounds are sprinkled along the river and tents are setup everywhere. Music is played all day, and most of the night, along the entire river area.
Alexander arrived by bicycle riding along a narrow bike trail, he started hearing serious music from a distance – first the guitars, then rhythms. As he got closer, the jazz manouche music was bouncing off the river banks – his excitement was soon rewarded. Upon entering a campground, he saw and heard several large circles of musicians jamming. One campground along the river had a consistent jam of over 100 guitars, violins, clarinets, standup bass and accordion players playing jazz manouche for hours every day.
Around midnight, a tribe of six gypsies would come through the campground which had a small bar and restaurant near the river. They would setup and play traditional gypsy music. Anyone could join in with them but they were intimidatingly good. People from around the world joined in. One can easily feel a part of this tribe. It was a most inspiring event for a jazz manouche fan.
After several days of unbelievable music, and making many new friends it was time to leave. As he was leaving the festival Alexander came across a group of women sitting around a campfire playing and singing a beautiful old Romani gypsy song which made for a perfect exit under the full moon.
On his return to the United States, Alexander stayed overnight in New York City and went to a favorite jazz club. He ran into a group of musicians that had attended the same festival and were playing some of Django’s originals – it’s a small world.
At Alexander’s first gig was with Martin after he returned to Key West the effect of the festival was obvious. Shortly after they began to play music, Martin said, “I see you’ve been to France”. Alexander plans to return to see his new friends and learn more jazz manouche. Next time, he’ll arrive a week early and stay a little longer, just to meet new friends and play some great music with old friends.
There are no comments yet, add one below.
Leave a Reply